It is with great pleasure that we add Palmita Mendez to the Buenos Aires Experience team of expert guides to ensure that our clients get a first class Buenos Aires Polo Experience….

My name is Palmita Mendez, I was born in Mexico but I’m currently residing in Argentina.  I first came to Buenos Aires to work in 2004 and the beauty of Buenos Aires city and the warmth of my many Argentine friends immediately captured my heart.  Buenos Aires is a fascinating city of amazing diversity and culture, and so I decided to make of Buenos Aires my home.

I studied gastronomy at the Instituto Argentino de Gastronomia, History of Art at the Fine Arts Museum, languages at the Goethe Institute and Alliance Francaise.

I already had so many reasons to love Buenos Aires and Argentina, but in September 2009, I found my real passion in life, and that passion fast became the most important reasons I now reside in Argentina: Polo.

In September 2009, I accepted an invitation from a close friend to watch a Polo game and to take a polo lesson.  I had no horseback riding skills and so I thought the experience was just another to ‘chalk-up’ and add to my cultural knowledge of Argentina, but to my surprise, I loved it!

Just one polo lesson with the right polo people was enough for me to fall in love with polo.

I can try to describe Polo with words but you only feel the exhilaration and that addictive buzz of adrenalin when you actually play polo – I have invited many of my friends to play polo and guess what, polo is a common addiction!

If you consider Polo a sport for traditional polo families or the landed gentry then think again or that you can only play polo if you have already good horseback riding skills, then think again – I have found that polo is for everybody – for every level, women and men.

Of course, if you ride horses well before you start your polo lessons you then have an important advantage but believe me when I say that you can start anytime and at any age!  In addition, polo in Argentina is very affordable and most visitors to Argentina are pleasantly surprised how little my day polo tours, weekend polo school and weekly polo clinics actually cost – please ask me for a quote…

I have always loved sports; I played tennis all my life; I love skiing; I play golf, but I never experienced anything like polo!  Polo is the most beautiful sport that I have ever played and I cannot enthuse or recommend polo enough to any sports minded girl or guy.

Polo has its own culture, camaraderie with many intrinsic values such as friendship, courtesy, beauty, honesty, elegance and simplicity, and of course that long and powerful connection that humans have with one of gods most beautiful and majestic  beasts, the horse. If you couple the culture and being at one with nature with great doses of adrenaline that pump through your veins, you begin to get my picture!

I’m absolutely in love with polo, but I have found it is critically important to start your training (polo school) with the right polo instructors to get the best out of the game and ensure you play safe and well.

I was very lucky to start with great polo coaches, not only for their technique but also for their charisma. A true, noble, joyful, honest polo family introduced me to Polo.  Simple gentlefolk that made me feel welcome at all times.

I am so grateful to the people that introduced me to polo and allowed me to be part of their lives. Actually, a traditional polo family first opened the door to me and to many others who now practice this sport. They have played polo for generations and enjoy sharing their enormous knowledge of the game.

I have been so lucky and therefore it is customary for Central Americans to share their luck!  If you would like to try this amazing sport, I am very happy to arrange day tours for polo lessons close to Buenos Aires city, Polo weekends and or weekly polo clinics.

It is with great pleasure that I collaborate with my polo friends and enthusiast at Buenos Aires Stay and Buenos Aires Experience to provide visitors to Buenos Aires with amazing low-cost accommodation and some the very best polo instructors in the world – I kid you not!

Polo changed my life in many ways.  The people, the places and the game have taught me many things about life and the way I want to live my own.  I have met many interesting people from around the world through polo and they all have left with me some of the greatest memories so far, even when just sharing the field for chukkas (all 7 minutes!).

Many of the people that I have met through polo became my closest friends and my favorite people. The simplicity of the terrain and the infinite skyline are all part of an invitation to live your life freely. The game teaches us the necessities of the team play and the true grit and determination that help redefine your personality – the battle on the polo field that shows you at your best… I have also learned about the beauty of a simple life, because as glamorous as polo may seem it is actually the simplicity and connection to nature that makes it all so worthwhile.

Today my goal is to become a good polo player, to have my own women´s team to go around the world playing polo and to invite new people to join this popular sport – especially women. I want to promote polo for its beauty and to teach the fine polo and values that I have learned.

Given my experience and how much it has changed my life, I extend my invitation to everybody who arrives in Buenos Aires – please do not leave Buenos Aires without first trying this wonderful sport – whatever your budget, I will endeavor to ensure that everyone who contacts me finds their way onto a polo field.

Buenos Aires has an enviable reputation as a ‘cradle’ of the arts and culture in South America.

Just walk down Corrientes Avenue at midnight and you will find open bookstores on every block.  If you check out their art sections, you will note that the arts, occupies a major section of each store – Argentines love their art.

The newly restored Teatro Colon, considered one of the top five opera houses in the world, has a capacity larger than that of the Scala of Milan. The Colon opera house is widely reputed with the best acoustics according to accomplished stars such as the late Pavarotti.

Argentina produced more than 50 films last year and won an Oscar for ‘The Secret of Your Eyes’ (El Secreto de tus Ojos) for the best foreign film.

Unbelievably, you have a museum for each day of the month when you visit Buenos Aires! For instance, Visitors can find the largest collection of Latin American art at the Malba.

My clients are always amazed that we arrange free art gallery viewings with drinks nearly every night of the week completely.

My clients also enjoy strolling the red carpets along elegant Alvear Avenue on the first Friday of every month when the countless galleries of open their doors and offer complimentary champagne to porteño art buffs, people watchers, and of course my clients.

Art Consulting

Buenos Aires Experience retains a team of art experts dedicated to offering art consulting to private individuals, experts and collectors alike.

Our art experts have amazing contacts throughout Buenos Aires and Argentina, and whatever your bent, our experts know the main agents and artists personally.

Our Buenos Aires art guides collaborate with a network of artists, galleries, private collectors and companies.

We advise insightful clients on the acquisition of works of art and help them build their investment portfolios. We take care of export, make purchases on request and attend auctions.

Art Tours

At Buenos Aires Experience, our guides are art specialists and their specialities too numerous to list.

Our tours are not about selling art. Buenos Aires Experience Art tours are about you, the client, whatever you want to see, whoever you wish to meet, given time and careful instructions we endeavour to ensure that our clients leave Buenos Aires better informed and knowledgeable about Argentine art.

One thing is for sure, art lovers love Buenos Aires. Why do they love Buenos Aires? For the same reason I do, Buenos Aires’ has rich cultural variety that seamlessly merges old Europe and contemporary Latin American.

We design personalised and tailored tours of the art studios, galleries and museums.

Our bilingual experts will take you through the art history of Argentina. Admire the first Argentine masters such as Soldi, or marvel Berni´s first works. Discuss art with artists and collectors when visiting our art network, where we guide through hip Palermo or bohemian San Telmo, without of course, overlooking refined Recoleta.

If art is your thing, contact us and our staff will prepare something special for you and your party.

It is April 1st, and with Easter already here, our mild Southern Hemisphere winter is just around the corner.  Today, on the first day of the Easter holiday the sky is blue and the weather looks wonderful:

Clear. High: 28 °C . Wind Calm. Heat Index: 28 °C .

Today, I am very busy with two tours, a Buenos Aires City tour this morning and then an Evita Tour this afternoon.

Recently, my clients have started to post information about my services to the various noticeboards like Tripadvisor and I would like to thank you very much for your kind recommendations.

Also, the requests by various readers for information in both Spanish and Portuguese are noted and my website and blog is currently being translated (slowly by me) and you can expect the first articles and web pages to appear within the next few weeks.

I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a very special Buenos Aires Easter.  Enjoy the day that will be hot with blue sky and lots to do throughout Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires Experience gets many emails from travelers wanting to know what vacation rentals agencies get it right consistently and the two companies I recommend have an enviable reputation and the best reviews in the marketplace.

Moreover, they both offer a lowest rent guarantee – you cannot get better accommodation deals anywhere else in Buenos Aires!

My team provides relocation services and works mainly on behalf of companies and we seek out  and use only the most reliable suppliers of Buenos Aires rental apartments for either short term vacation rental and longer term lease.

Below,  I recommend just two of the best vacation rental names in the business that have a strong emphasis in international tourism and real estate.

Luxury BA Stay apartments exceeds in understanding the sophistication and requirements of discerning guests seeking luxury accommodation. BA Stay has a selection of luxury apartments, houses, lofts and concierge services that reminds me of Buenos Aires in its heydays. Spend your vacations in some of the most exclusive Buenos Aires rental apartments and houses located in the most traditional upscale neighborhoods. If modernism is your thing, they publish apartments for rent in the city’s hippest hot spots.

BA Stay.com, your home in Buenos Aires. Marca Reg. – http://www.bastay.com/

Buenos Aires Stay is a long established (2005) and well known provider of  Buenos Aires rental apartments with hundreds of options from cheapest to the most expensive real estate in Buenos Aires with rents that start from only USD$150 for a simple  budget accommodation in one of the many neighborhoods popular with visitors such as: San Telmo, Puerto Madero, Centro, Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano.  Buenos Aires Stay boasts over 800 rental apartments plus 1000s of apartment listed by their trusted partners. They stand tall above many other vacation apartment agencies differentiating their offer with great services.  Almost 20% of Buenos Aires Stay’s business come from repeat business.

BuenosAireStay.com, Buenos Aires rental apartment provider – http://www.buenosairesstay.com

Buenos Aires rental apartments are a home away from home and offer Buenos Aires visitors great value accommodation at rates up to 60% cheaper than Buenos Aires hotels.

A celebratory tour that chronicles the life of Evita…

Let us embark on a historical journey throughout Buenos Aires City that bears witness and honors the remarkable life of Argentina’s iconic Maria Eva Duarte de Peron.  A lady who will always be Argentina’s First Lady.

Our Evita Experience tells a balanced story of a woman who fought her way into the dangerous Argentine political arena circa 1940s and struggled to achieve female suffrage, fair labor reforms and social welfare programs for the poor and disenfranchised.

BACKGROUND

She was the youngest of five children in the village of Los Toldos in the Province of Buenos Aires on May 7, 1919. She was the daughter of Juan Duarte and Juana Ibarguren, and sister of Elisa, Blanca, Erminda and Juan.

Following the death of her father, the family moved to the larger town of Junín, where her mother managed a boarding house. At the age of sixteen, Evita, as she was nicknamed, dropped out of high school and left for the metropolis and entertainment capital of South America – Buenos Aires.

She dreamed of being an actress although she had no training, she landed a couple of secondary roles in motion pictures and radio, where she excelled as a Radio soap-opera starlet in one of the most important stations.  By 1944, Evita was making a living from acting and became a popular radio character in radios golden years.

In 1943, Eva met Colonel Juan Domingo Perón, secretary of labor and social welfare in the military government that had recently seized power and it is here the story of her meteoric rise a figure for the people begins.  Eva cultivated a strong relationship with the widowed Perón, who was organizing the workers to gain political support for his presidential ambition to run for the presidency. Evita´s image and background would prove crucial to help him in this objective.

In October 1945, Perón’s ambition and dreams of free creates some dissent from his military colleagues and leads to his house arrest in the Delta. Evita rouses the people organizing the largest rally ever seen in Argentina. The masses filled the Plaza de Mayo demanding the freedom of their newfound leader-in-waiting.

Fearing a Bastille-like episode, the military had no choice but to free him. They ordered him to speak and appease the crowds. It was at this point that Evita and Peron realized their power, the power of the people.

Peron, a shrewd political operator, demanded free elections to appease the angry crowds amassing outside Casa Rosada. The military fearing chaos have little choice and accept his condition. He spoke to the thorns and felt their admiration. He knew then that nothing could stand between him and the Casa Rosada. This day is known as the day of peronist loyalty and is celebrated on the 17^th of October. On October 21, 1945, Evita and Juan Perón were married and so begins one of the most important and tragic stories in Argentine political history.

TOUR

Evita’s life touches all the favorite Buenos Aires barrios. We start our Evita Experience in SanTelmo at the CGT (General Workers Union), the traditional source of ‘Peronist power’ (eve today) where she Eva Duarte Peron is still revered and remembered with a portrait mural on the facade the Building as well as a constant flame to celebrate her life.

Next door is the Engineering University .This monumental structure used to house The Eva Peron Foundation, established by Evita herself in order to help the poor and her further her own political ambitions.

From San Telmo we wander to the Plaza de Mayo, site of the Casa Rosada (Pink House) and its balconies  witness to Evita`s important speeches and Peronist rallies. Later, this seat of government suffered bombing by the military when during the Revolution Libertadora of 1955 that ended Peron’s first terms as president. You can still see the bullets hole on the Ministry of Economy and a plaque that reads – “The scars on this marble were the harvest of confrontation and intolerance .Their imprint on our memory will help the nation achieve a future greatness.”

Then is on to the national congress building where Evita witnessed the swearing of Peron`s second term after joining him in an open car traveling to  the Pink House, the whole time supported by a harness and covered in a mink coat to hide her frame ravaged by cancer and a body so weak and unable to  support her weight. Evita sadly passed away just a few days later at the peak of her popularity at the young age of 33. Congress is also where she lay in state for days on end while her faithful stood in line to get one last glimpse of their heroin.

From Congreso we travel on to Recoleta to see her monument and to visit the Duarte mausoleum where she finally lays interred at the Recoleta Cemetery.

Around her, lay many of her foe, sworn  enemies of the Perons and supporters of the status quo. We mean of course the landowning aristocracy and industrialist who still fear their legacy. Nearby, on Posadas street is the apartment where Eva Duarte Peron once lived.

We finish our journey in the Evita Museum that displays videos, photos, clippings and even a newspaper with her fingerprints. Among the many prize memorabilia are her wardrobe, shoes, handbags, hats, old wallets and even her perfumes.

We can take a coffee and a snack at the museum café on the patio and our Evita ‘specialist’ will answer your questions and help you piece together the impact this iconic lady had and still has on Argentine social and political history.

Contact us for an Evita tour

See the other tours provided by Buenos Aires Experience

They need not have worried.  Reading the guests various comments in their hundreds makes interesting reading  and it is clearly apparent that from the very first day, visitors that chose to stay at La Margarita estancia Buenos Aires were overwhelmed by the peace, tranquility, and friendliness.

Visitors from all over the world comment again and again on how beautiful, serene, and peaceful their estancia stay has been and they vow to come back. We concur, La Margarita is a special place.

Visitors describe the delicious food, great horseback riding, and warm and attentive staff.

The words “fabulous time”, “didn’t want to leave”, and “the real Argentina”, “I feel rested thank you” appear again and again in the comments book.  We always ask for and read the comments book, it does clearly tell a story.

There is no better way to prove  that La Margarita Estancia Buenos Aires offers a unique opportunity to experience Argentine hospitality than the testimony of 100s of satisfied guests.

Located just 280 kilometres from Buenos Aires you are close enough to the city, but away enough for your estancia stay to benefit from wide open spaces and not another human being for as far as the eye can see or you might want to walk.

La Margarita is far enough away to avoid the crush of tourists suffered by Buenos Aires estancias closer to the capital, but close enough to enjoy a weekend break in a wonderful location without “the maddening crowd.”

What can you expect to find when you come to La Margarita?

As you turn off the main route to drive the five kilometers leading to Estancia La Margarita, you will immediately know that you are in different world. Vast countryside, wide-open skies, cows grazing the fields, and gauchos on horseback herding cattle are all on the horizon – this is the real Argentina, you are in the heart of the Pampas.

Pass the tiny white-washed school and a few small houses, and you arrive at start of the grounds of La Margarita. Driving through the entrance and up to the main house, you will notice the wonderful trees and woods on that surround the house.

The picturesque estancia house is located in the centre of the park lands surrounded by flowers and plants. You will be welcomed on your arrival and offered refreshments, the pointers get to you first and their greeting is honest pleasure, they bark that they are here to help and they are very much part of the team.

Once you have settled in to your room, you are free to do whatever you want, that’s it, nobody bother you until you look like you might need something and then as if by magic one of the girls appears – how?  Are these girls super beings who mind read, we laughed about twice during our stay.

We explored the huge grounds, took a nap in a hammock, swam in the pool, and went riding early evening it was bliss.  If inclined you might simply go for a walk to breathe in the wonderful fresh air and experience the calmness that Estancia La Margarita offers in abundance.

It was summer, but we saw pictures of guests during  winter, sat by the enormous log-burning fireplace in the living room. Sharing a glass of wine with fellow guests all smiling and hot from the fire.  We fancy going back for a night or two when the weather cools.

For under USD100 each, you get 24 hours of bliss, with all meals, drinks and activities included, you can ride twice a day if you wish – that is superb value.

We do not usually write about Buenos Aires estancias, but we think that La Margarita deserves a special mention for the quality of the stay and a very, very reasonable price tag.

Contact La Margarita Estancia Buenos Aires

Without doubt, we offer Buenos Aires’ most luxurious and unique accommodation and tour, which will close April 2011 and is therefore limited and subject to availability.

In conjunction with the LUXURY LORD, Lord Alain Levenfiche, we are proud to announce and offer discerning travelers the most luxurious tour of Buenos Aires City and Buenos Aires Province, vacationing in two of Buenos Aires’ most talked about, landmark and unique properties.

7 days in Buenos Aires City & Province

Spend 4 days at the Kavanagh Penthouse and then 3 days at Santa Maria de Lobos Polo Estate, both properties staffed to care for guests with a gentlemens’ gentleman (butler) and/or full time maid, an on-call chef and multilingual interpreter/guide to live the best of Buenos Aires City and Buenos Aires Province.

Our five stars  luxury Buenos Aires travel and tours experience is exclusive to Buenos Aires Experience.

For the first time, Lord Alain Levenfiche, the LUXURY LORD, will open his palatial Argentine homes both in Buenos Aires City and Buenos Aires Province for parties of up to eight to ten guests for 7 to 14 days.

Buenos Aires City Experience – live the belle epoch at the iconic Kavanagh 14 floor penthouse

Our guests will live the belle epoch, Luxury Lord Style, on the 14^th floor of the iconic Kavanagh building, Buenos Aires’ most exclusive skyline penthouse apartment for a unique Buenos Aires City Experience.

Buenos Aires Country Experience –‘lord’ it over the Pampas at the Santa Maria de Lobos Polo Estate

Guests will travel across Buenos Aires Pampas by luxury SUV or helicopter to Casa de Lord, at Santa Maria de Lobos Polo Club, staying a No.1 Polo estancia, simply the most luxurious private estancia found anywhere in South America. Fully staffed and privately guided from arrival to departure this Buenos Aires Experience will help you unlock the secrets of Buenos Aires City and Argentina’s Pampas.

Buenos Aires Experience advises and plans unique travel and tours of Buenos Aires and Argentina to your exact specifications and of course, our exacting standards.  Your Buenos Aires Experience might include:

• Take an inspirational and historical journey through the city of Buenos Aires to celebrate our proud culture
• Fly by private aircraft over the Parana Delta, Buenos Aires City and Uruguay for lunch on Martin Garcia Island on the Rio del La Plata
• Take tango lessons (optional)  and head out for a rip-roaring ‘tango for real’ night on the town
• Enjoy the fauna and flora rich Parana Delta on a luxury day cruise with lunch
• Experience horsemanship Argentine style – ride the Gauchos’ pony of choice, the Criollo or learn to play polo at the LUXURY LORDS Polo estancia
• In season we can arrange small game hunting and angling any season
• Relax by the pool with fountains cascading around you whilst our chef prepares a mouth watering Patagonian asado (meat cooked on coals)
• Let our resident sommelier (wine expert) introduce you to the wonders of Argentine wines that we do not export!

Make your travel and tours of the Argentine a mind-blowing once in a lifetime Buenos Aires Experience.

We truly tailor our tours to ‘fit’ your imaginings of the perfect Buenos Aires Experience.  Our tours are designed by you with the help of an Experience Director who then guides you for the duration of your vacation.

This tour is ‘priceless’ for luxury travelers who demand the ultimate Buenos Aires Experience with no expense spared and every opportunity taken to capture the REAL Buenos Aires visitors yearn to see…but more often miss.

This exclusive five stars luxury accommodation  and tour by Buenos Aires Experience will close April 2011

Welcome to Buenos Aires or more specifically for this Buenos Aires tours update, welcome to San Telmo, Buenos Aires’ special barrio, loved by locals and visitors alike.

For those of you who read our blog and do not know me, I am Sebastian Airaldi, Experience Director at Buenos Aires Experience.  I spend my time designing tours of Buenos Aires for travelers who demand a little more from the city and their guides.

Today, we continue our walking tours of Buenos Aires boroughs.  That reminds me, the other day I bumped into a colleague and his tour group in San Telmo. He was puzzled that I post directional walking tours to my blog.

I understand that there are three categories of voyagers:  Primarily there are the masses that have to save hard and stretch every penny to enjoy their vacation – my information is mainly for those ‘budget travelers’ who cannot afford my tours – ENJOY! Then we have the ‘intrepids’ who can afford the comfort and joy of a local guide but they want to go it alone – ENJOY!  Last but certainly not least, we have those travelers who desire the luxury of a guided five star Buenos Aires tour.

At Buenos Aires Experience, we want to play our part in ensuring that all travelers love our great city so they can go back home and tell their friends the Buenos Aires Experience they are missing.

SAN TELMO “A true bohemia “

San Telmo was once home to the aristocratic elite. That all changed in the 1870´s when  the yellow fever plagued the densely populated southern area of Buenos Aires sending the upper classes and those who could afford it north to Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano.

San Telmo Buenos Aires was also close to La Boca where hundreds of thousands of poor immigrants would arrive. These poor immigrants quickly moved north into San Telmo moving into the abandoned mansions.

Groups and families shared one room of many amazing Petit Hotels. The once wealthy and palatial homes of single families became a refuge for ten or more families, and thus the infamous “conventillos” were born on the streets of San Telmo.

San Telmo is the “tangueros “ barrio of choice because of its “Milongas”(Dances).  I am a tanguero myself and have been taking lessons for fifteen years. This wonderful dance form is a never-ending learning process and like Golf you are never fully satisfied.

More recently, an influx of tourist and the development of Puerto Madero have helped revitalize and gentrify San Telmo, it is not finished yet and my hope is that San Telmo retains its character and does not lose its wonderful antique buildings.

The area has attracted white-collar workers and developers. A number of rundown houses underwent development into lofts, hostels, galleries and cafés, giving SanTelmo a new lease of life.  Fortunately, San Telmo has worn down beauty, the signposts of yesteryear are still evident, and we must fight to preserve this open-air museum in the same way as Caminito (La Boca) sort protection in the 1950s.

Walking tour

The Spanish Laws of the Indies established clear patterns for the cities of the colonies. Always a centre, then rectangular blocks of roughly the same size spanned out uniformly from that central point. Here in Buenos Aires we love to break the rules, it is part of our culture. Look at Balcarce Street for example, do you find uniformity – not at all. We Porteños consider rules flexible friends in every sense. You might have already noticed, just watch us driving, queuing, or crossing the street – anarchy!

On our walking tours of Buenos Aires, rather than bitch the bits of our psyche that make us so wonderfully disobedient we like to try to find some positivity and celebrate our cultural nuances

We start our San Telmo Walking Tour at PARQUE LEZAMA

Designed by the great Charles Thays and said to be the site of Pedro de Mendoza’s founding of Buenos Aires (unsuccessful and round two of the Spanish conquest) in 1536, PARQUE LEZAMA is today home to the Museo Historico Nacional (National History Museum).

This park has a real local feel that often makes visitors think that it is dangerous. On any afternoon you find neighbors sharing a mate and “torta frita” (local homemade fried dough). PARQUE LEZAMA is hilly, with many exotic trees and old folks playing “truco” (local card game involving lots of bluffing).

Across the park you can marvel the ‘Onion Domes’ of the Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa (Russian orthodox church circa 1904 )built with Russian immigrants it has amazing stained glass windows designed by Alejandro Chistopherson.

Walk north along Defensa Street to San Telmo´s nerve center, PLAZA DORREGO .During the week the square is full of tables with people downing beers in the midst of a scene reminiscent of Hitchcock “The Birds” – Pigeons diving in for the kill, your peanuts and chips at risk if you lose your concentration for just one moment.

If antiques are your thing, you are in for a real treat as the whole area awakens at the weekend and the tables and a vibrant flea market that stretches its way down Defensa to Plaza de Mayo replaces chairs.  You will love the antique market at the weekend.

Do you know that between 1880 and 1940 we Argentines were rich with the fifth largest economy in the world, we were big buyers of European luxuries and we loved the Art Nuevo and Art Deco periods, just take a look at the wonderful collections in the shops, we especially liked French furniture.

During World War I, Parisians were struggling to survive whereas the porteños were worrying about what new Bauhaus davenport to buy.

San Telmo’s streets become open theaters where you can find all sorts of performers and tango dancers. Also interesting, is the Museo Penitenciario Nacional (National Penitentiary Museum circa 1750) Once a convent, it was home to the general Rosas torturers and then became a woman`s jail.

Walk down Defensa for a block and a half and enter the wonderful Mercado San Telmo, where you can buy a “colita de cuadril” (rump´s tail) a collection comics, or papayas and flour, or antique siphons and silk flowers.   I love the fact that Buenos Aires is largely ‘disorderly’ and without areas for particular goods and purchases, but San Telmo an area for Antiques and local arts and craft.

If you want to buy antiques, book our expert guide to help you buy.  In addition, if you are making major purchases do not come high season.

Stay on Defensa to Pasaje san Lorenzo 380, La Casa Minima (The smallest house).  This is the narrowest chorizo (sausage) house in Buenos Aires.

Next, for a look at one of the best sculptures in town, carry on up Defensa and turn east onto passage Giuffra to Plaza Coronel Olazabal, where you find Rogelio Yrurtias´s Canto al Trabajo (ode to labor), and a tribute to all the hardworking immigrants.

Just across the street is the neoclassic Facultad de Ingenieria (university of engineering) once the home Fundacion Eva Peron, set up by Evita to assist the needy and to further the Peron’s political aspirations.

Cross the street to Azopardo and Avenida Independencia where you will find the infamous Confederacion General de Trabajadores (General Labor Federation), the main labor union that is and always has been a hotbed of Peronist politicking and to this day, it exhibits a portrait of Evita on the wall outside of its headquarters.

We are not a lucky people when it comes to politics, I often wonder if the masses support of Peronism, which has hardly been our ‘salvation’, is because we are still recovering from totalitarian regimes of the late 70s and early 80s and because of the lackluster myriad of second-rate and inept leaders we elect.

We need a true leader, an honest political leader and a true reformer to chase away the ghost of Peron chatter from our kitchen tables. Peron chatter, always ‘rose colored’ ignoring the disasters that started during his presidencies and rumbled on for many years after he had gone. This chatter ‘infects’ each new generation.

On Carlos Calvo 257, you stumble on a Scandinavian like church called Dansk Kirke (Danidh Lutheran Church circa 1931)  built by Ronnow and Bisgaard. Five streets from there in Azopardo 1428, is the Svenska Kirkan (Swedish Lutheran Church circa 1944) Just another evidence of Buenos Aires´ wonderfully open culture that welcomes all religions and creeds.

Turn right on to Chile, where you might just spot “MAFALDA” (world-renowned comic character who resides in San Telmo). Then turn Left on Balcarce Street to Avenida Belgrano where just a block to your left is the Basilica de Santo Domingo circa 1758. If you observe the left bell tower, you will notice the small cannon balls encrusted fascia.

Souvenirs of the second British Invasion of 1807, the occupying army took control of the site. Inside you will find the flags that were captured when our peoples and the local militia grouped to run the British invaders out of town – hand-to-hand combat, men women and children firing small arms and scalding liquids from the roof tops – armies were no more prepared for guerrilla warfare in an urban setting than they are today!

Those damn British never give up! Just a few years later, they are back as a ‘friend’ of Spain in Europe whilst using their money to support our independence and ‘invade’ us again as investors.

Make your way back down Defensa to the smaller obelisk of Plaza de Mayo.

Hope you enjoy this San Telmo Buenos Aires tour, which takes of about 2 to 3 hours.

For lunch, look at this restaurant guide

Book a Buenos Aires City tour

Book a tour of San Telmo

His kind invitation was to view his apartment and discuss our Chairman’s idea of promoting the most luxurious tour of Buenos Aires City and Province, to include 7 to 14 nights staying at his landmark properties in Argentina.

We knew the ‘LUXURY LORD’ by reputation and Andrew, being British, filled in all the gaps.

Lord Alain was born in Paris 57 years ago to aristocratic British family and brought up in North West London where he ran a successful real estate business.

The ‘Luxury Lord’ who retires annually (that is until he spots an opportunity that meets his property or land criteria – landmark, the best, unique, and unrivalled – and buying and developing all over again) had acquired two marvelous properties in Argentina. The Penthouse, 14^th Floor at the Kavanagh, a landmark dwelling with a ‘twisted history’ and his first project in Argentina’s Pampas, the Polo Estancia Number One on the 875 acre Santa Maria Lobos Polo Club.

Lord Alain states, ‘I am of the opinion, if people are already talking about going to a particular place then it is already too late.  The smart money arrives early, before the pack of wolves arrives and split everything up.’

We arrived at 17h55 and the front of house manager at the Kavanagh building showed us to the lift that would take us to the famous 14th floor at the Kavanagh.

Lord Alain opened the door and he welcomed us in to his palatial home and ushered straight to the bar. He allowed us to sit for a while by his trademark in-house disco complete with a Studio 54 up lit disco floor and laser beam lights.

PHEW! WOW! WOW! The apartment has large windows floor to ceiling and doors that opened onto super rooftop gardens offering a staggering 360-degree panoramic view of Buenos Aires skyline.  There is not one Porteño that would not sell their soul for an evening of cocktails in Corina Kavanagh’s birds nest.

I had read my notes prepared before my arrival and looked at various clipping on Lord Alain and his various properties throughout the world; I was prepared to be stunned.  The 14 floor penthouse at the Kavanagh is the most amazing penthouse apartments I have visited anywhere in the world – simply amazing. As the son of a career ambassador (currently in Switzerland), I have been around a bit you know.

Alain suggested drinks and his butler mixed one hell of a Vodka Martini, and then the man who obviously loves his properties took us on a guided tour. The tour of 14^th floor at the Kavanagh took us over half an hour and another two cocktails.

A quick description: 855 square meters of ultra luxury living, that how we would describe the Penthouse at the Edificio Kavanagh. Three gardens, 2 master bedrooms that have their own gardens, 3 more double bedrooms en-suite and a house cleaner or nanny’s quarters with an en-suite bathroom.

The Kavanagh Building (Edificio Kavanagh) is located at 1065 Florida Street in the barrio of Retiro, Buenos Aires, Argentina, overlooking Plaza San Martín.

Corina Kavanagh commissioned architects Gregorio Sánchez, Ernesto Lagos and Luis María de la Torre, famed for the Empire State Building, to begin work in the 1934 to construct a Rationalist style building, which they completed in 1936.

In 1999, the Argentines declared the building a national historical monument.

Edificio Kavanagh is still one of the most impressive architectural masterpieces on Buenos Aires’ skyline. Standing at a height of 120 m, it retains its impact against the modern skyline of the city, even today.

Corina Kavanagh invested all she had inherited in building her own skyscraper. The Kavanagh building has a towering form, with symmetrical setbacks and gradual surface reductions, created from the outside in to offer residents very comfortable dwellings that were modern urban living gems built at the end of Argentina’s belle epoch.

The structure designed to be as slender as possible in order to avoid unnecessary weight. The design is a hybrid of a Modernism and Art Deco American skyscraper styling, with a rationalistic approach. This is the crème-del-la-crème of Modernism in Argentina.

For many years the highest reinforced concrete structure in the world and the tallest building in South America, the Kavanagh building still arouses equal measures of love and criticism.

The upper middle classes purchased the apartments in the new building. All 105 apartments contained the latest in technology, including central air conditioning, 12 Otis elevators, and state-of-the-art plumbing. The apartments on the upper floors have exquisite terrace gardens with views of the river, parks and the city and we were in the very best of the bunch, how very exciting!

Corina Kavanagh had lived for many years on the 14th floor in the largest apartment, and the only penthouse that occupies an entire floor with private gardens.

This apartment has great history and a long line of illustrious visitors (now me) such as the Peron’s have been its guests.  The rather twisted urban legend tells of Corina’s revenge on the Anchorena family and goes something like this – one of Corina’s daughters fell in love with the son of the Anchorena family, who were both wealthy and aristocratic.

The Anchorena family lived in a palace on the other side of Plaza San Martín (today known as San Martín Palace) and had built a church next to the site of the Kavanagh Building, they disapproved of the engagement to Corina’s daughter who although wealthy in their opinion had no breeding. Corina Kavanagh’s revenge was to build her skyscraper to block the view of the Anchorena’s church.  A religious family, their church was important and the view constructed to remind their catholic values.

Just two owners have lived in Corina’s amazing apartment on the 14^th floor of the Kavanagh building, Corina and our host Lord Alain.

Today, we are off to Lobos for the second apart of our grand tour and tomorrow we will update this series of articles on the ‘LUXURY LORD’ with details of Polo Estancia Number One on the 875 acre Santa Maria Lobos Polo Club and our unique luxury tour of Buenos Aires City and Province.

If you would like to rent the 14^th Floor at the Kavanagh Building for vacation, business stopover or a party, the minimum Buenos Aires Stay is three days and we have the keys!

Watch this space as we have lunch with the Luxury Lord at Santa Maria de Lobos Polo Club this weekend and we promise our readers something very – very – special next week.

The Buenos Aires Penthouse online tour!

Meet Lord Alain Levenfiche the Luxury Lord!

Want to view the Kavanagh Penthouse?

Sebastian Airaldi – Your Buenos Aires Experience Director